JKCORE
An Ethnic Normie
- Joined
- May 10, 2026
- Posts
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Not the best at extensive research admittedly, but I'm trying so I can really dial in on my looks. This is for my unfinished document containing everything to do with ascending my looks, and this section focuses on skin. Unfinished of course, but I'd love feedback and help/insight into what I should look into, what I should add especially with my current situation. So, here's everything so far:
Section I: Skin
Why is Skin Important to Improve on?
Healthy, youthful skin is a clear positive health indicator. It is the most largest and visible feature, always being exposed. Smoother, clearer skin can determine how your whole face is perceived, whether negative or positive. Skin also influences your perceived age. Wrinkles and lines are indicators of aging, and you want to appear more youthful, not less youthful. Skin also affects facial harmony, even if you have good bone structure, your skin quality if poor can overshadow this. Great skin also elevates naturally average features too. People judge you based on your grooming. You could actually be grooming perfectly, however, people will think you aren’t, because your skin looks bad. To clarify: Bad skin doesn’t equal bad grooming, but your skin is a health indicator, and your skin being bad makes people THINK you don’t groom yourself properly.
My overall goals for my skin are to remove all impurities, and make sure my skin is glowing and perfect even in photos and in public. I want the type of skin where when I walk past a person, they notice the glistening in my skin from it being very hydrated and moisturised, and having that shiny tint.
Analysis of My Skin
My skin colour is a caramel-milk chocolate brown. This means there is plenty of melanin in my skin, and this makes my skin more unique in terms of the problems I face when it comes to my skin and complexion. My skin type is normal, I never really had extremely bad acne.
The current flaws I have in my skin are as follows. I have dark spots located mainly on my forehead due to popping and irritating my acne spots, and these cause my forehead to have dark points where there is hyperpigmentation. I also suffer from fine lines, they aren’t wrinkles because I’m still relatively young in age. These probably come from raising eyebrows, smiling and other facial expressions. Sometimes I do get breakouts, although the breakouts I do get are not that huge or anything. Breakouts are moderate/minor.
Why do I have these impurities?
Melanin biology tells us that brown skin darkens after irritation due to a process called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This is where the skin produces extra melanin after acne. Melanin is a pigment that is produced by melanocytes which gives colour to your skin, hair and eyes and has more crucial biological functions, such as protecting cells from UV radiation damage. There are two types: eumelanin which is the most common type, which results in brown and black colours, and pheomelanin which produces reddish brown hues. Inflammation triggers melanocytes which are the cells that produce melanin, and makes them hyperactive. This then leads to an overproduction of melanin, and there is an irregular distribution of pigment in the affected area. This causes the skin to appear darker, forming tan, brown, dark brown and even darker coloured patches where the acne used to be. It’s more common in brown skin because brown skin has a higher amount of melanin due to melanocytes being more active, and they produce larger, more effective melanosomes, making post inflammatory hyperpigmentation much more severe than someone with lighter skin tones.
The reason why someone might have fine lines is this. With age, the skin naturally becomes less elastic and drier, which means there is a decrease in collagen and elastin production. Another reason is because also with age, the skin cells start to divide slower, which causes the outer layer of skin to thin.
The age factors do not apply to me however, since I’m still very young, and these are the reasons why a young person like me could have fine lines. One reason is sun exposure. This is one of the more significant causes of premature aging, and this is where the UV rays break down collagen and elastin, which leads to wrinkles and losing firmness in the face. One which I 100% think is a factor as well is facial expressions. Smiling, squinting, frowning and other facial expressions can cause the muscles to retract and form grooves beneath the surface of the skin. Dehydration is also a factor. When dehydrated, your skin can look less plump and makes existing lines more prominent.
My Current Skincare Routine
Currently, my skincare routine is not good at all and will not fit my goals. I use turmeric soap as a cleanser at the moment. Turmeric soap does have its positives. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This is because turmeric contains curcumin, which has strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. However, there is little research on whether turmeric lightens the skin and heals dark spots, effectively meaning it does not. This makes the cleanser not really align with my goals.
I also use SPF 50 moisturiser and sunscreen from CeraVe. This is the only good part of my routine. Melanated skin is not enough to block out the sun, and so it still needs help from SPF 50.
Research
Niacinamide
Niacinamide supposedly inhibits melanin transfers, which prevents the transfer of melanin to the epidermis and this helps to support skin cell renewal, and this leads to better looking skin overall. Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier and minimizes water loss, and minimizes contrast too. Niacinamide also helps with wrinkles too, stimulating collagen and elastin production, which makes the skin more youthful. Heavy research has been done on Niacinamide, and so it seems like a great product to use.
Use 2-5% ideally, and only 10% concentration if tolerated. Using 10% or a higher % can cause irritation and even dermatitis if you have sensitive skin, so it is important to not use such high concentration. For me however, I am lucky to not have that high risk too much, as my skin is normal. Results usually kick in from 8-12 weeks.
SPF 50
Melanin blocks a lot of UV from the sun (Melanin has an equivalent of SPF 13.4), it does not fully protect your skin from the sun. The minimum is SPF 30, which my skin just does not have. Which is why using SPF 50 sunscreens is important to me. SPF 50 helps with dark spots and impurities by protecting the skin from the sun, preventing dark spots from darkening further. The sun can further darken dark spots, and so it’s important to use SPF 50 all the time.
It’s best to look for broad spectrum, PA+++++ and water resistant sunscreens for the best results. Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB rays, which prevents things such as sun burn and skin aging. PA+++++ is important because it is a Japanese rating system which indicates if a sunscreen has extremely high protection from UV rays. Water resistance is important because if you’re active in the gym (I am), sweat can remove the sunscreen protection from your face. Also, it is important to look for chemical sunscreens, so there’s no white cast when applying it to the skin.
Copper GHK-Cu (Peptide)
Copper GHK-Cu is a peptide that has become more popular over the last few years. It works by acting as a signaling molecule, which delivers copper to cells to repair and regenerate tissue. Science says that it has benefits for skin collagen, elastin production, healing wounds and antioxidant properties. The most effective serums use very low concentrations (below 0.5%). Copper GHK-Cu is not the best however for active acne, and using it alongside strong acids weaken the peptide itself. This is best to use after microneedling, since peptides signal repair (although this is still debated, some dermatologists strongly advise NOT to use any active immediately after microneedling. Still use retinoids/vitamin c alongside this peptide.
Vitamin C Serums
Vitamin C benefits the skin by boosting collagen production, which increases firmness and acts as an antioxidant to protect against damage and brightening complexion to target dark spots. It hydrates the skin too. There are two types of Vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid, which is the strongest and has the most evidence, but it can also be the most irritating, and Derivatives, such as SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate), MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), THD (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate), 3-0 Ethyl which are gentler, stable and they also brighten skin. It is said L-ascorbic acid is best for brown skin, but it needs to be at a low pH formula. 2.5-3.5 is the best. L-ascorbic acid also oxidises fast, and if it turns a dark orange colour, it is useless. Derivatives should be used if skin is sensitive and easily irritated, and the derivatives that are best for brown skin are SAP or THD.
Retinols
Retinols are said to help with skin cell turnover and collagen production, which fades dark spots over time. It also helps with regulating pigment production, and speed up the removal of melanin-containing cells. The options for retinols are:
Retinols (On The Counter)
Retinaldehyde (On the Counter, but stronger)
Adapalene (Differin - OTC, good for acne and PIN)
Tretinoin (Prescription)
Brown skin has been shown to benefit more from Adapalene, because it treats the root cause and helps to reduce post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and prevents future dark spots and scarring. Retinoids can worsen hyperpigmentation if they are not paired with SPF 50, and so it is important to use SPF 50 when using Retinoids. Start 2x a week, then 3x a week, then every other day then every day for the best results. Buffer with moisturiser to prevent any irritation.
Derma Roller/Stamp
These are microneedling tools that use fine needles to create tiny channels in the skin. They stimulate a response to the natural healing process to repair skin by boosting collagen and elastin production. This helps with uneven skin tone, acne scarring and wrinkles/fine lines. At home derma rollers don’t boost collagen and elastin production however, only professional ones. At home derma rollers should be 0.25mm-0.3mm in length and they improve product absorption, and temporarily give plump skin. 1.0-2.5mm are for professional clinics and these are the only things that can remove and remodel acne-scar collagen.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid which is found in grains such as barley, wheat and rye. It is very effective in treating dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid blocks the enzyme called tyrosinase, which is essential for melanin production. When reducing melanin synthesis, it helps to lighten dark spots that are caused by conditions such as PIH and melasma. Azelaic acid also has mild exfoliating properties that help to remove dead skin cells which promotes cell turnover. This reveals brighter skin and helps fade dark spots over time. Azelaic acid is helpful for all skin types including sensitive skin, and is beneficial for darker skin tones because it targets hyperpigmentation without major irritation.
Moisturiser Technology
Hydration is important for your skin because it improves complexion, elasticity, and overall skin appearance while preventing dryness and premature aging. Staying hydrated flushes out toxins and impurities from the skin, which results in a clearer and more radiant complexion. When dehydrated, it leads to dull and dry skin. Proper hydration supports collagen and elastin production. Well hydrated skin reduces the risk of fine lines because it’s more flexible and supple. Hydration prevents dryness by maintaining the moisture balance of the skin. When properly hydrated, the skin’s outer layer acts as a barrier, preventing excessive moisture loss and keeping the skin soft and smooth. Hydrated skin is also better equipped at repairing damage from the environment, such as UV radiation. This leads to a faster recovery and a healthier skin barrier.
There are different categories of moisturising ingredients with different benefits. Humectants, which are basically substances that draw water from the environment or deeper layers of the skin to the outermost layer, and this enhances hydration. By attracting water, these humectants help maintain skin hydration, improve texture and support the skin’s natural barrier function. Examples of humectants are hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea, aloe vera and sodium PCA. The best humectant from my research is hyaluronic acid. It is a powerful humectant that can hold up to 1000x its weight in water. It’s extremely good for dry and dehydrated skin especially because of this reason. Next is Emollients. These form a protective barrier around the skin, and they work by filling in the gaps between skin cells, which helps to smoothen and soften the surface of the skin. This is beneficial for individuals with dry, flaky or irritated skin. Examples include squalane, fatty acids, ceramides and triglycerides. Next, is occlusives. Occlusives form a seal to prevent water loss. Some occlusives include petrolatum, dimethicone and shea butter. It’s important to note that some examples of either humectants, emollients and occlusives can exist in more than one category.
Section I: Skin
Why is Skin Important to Improve on?
Healthy, youthful skin is a clear positive health indicator. It is the most largest and visible feature, always being exposed. Smoother, clearer skin can determine how your whole face is perceived, whether negative or positive. Skin also influences your perceived age. Wrinkles and lines are indicators of aging, and you want to appear more youthful, not less youthful. Skin also affects facial harmony, even if you have good bone structure, your skin quality if poor can overshadow this. Great skin also elevates naturally average features too. People judge you based on your grooming. You could actually be grooming perfectly, however, people will think you aren’t, because your skin looks bad. To clarify: Bad skin doesn’t equal bad grooming, but your skin is a health indicator, and your skin being bad makes people THINK you don’t groom yourself properly.
My overall goals for my skin are to remove all impurities, and make sure my skin is glowing and perfect even in photos and in public. I want the type of skin where when I walk past a person, they notice the glistening in my skin from it being very hydrated and moisturised, and having that shiny tint.
Analysis of My Skin
My skin colour is a caramel-milk chocolate brown. This means there is plenty of melanin in my skin, and this makes my skin more unique in terms of the problems I face when it comes to my skin and complexion. My skin type is normal, I never really had extremely bad acne.
The current flaws I have in my skin are as follows. I have dark spots located mainly on my forehead due to popping and irritating my acne spots, and these cause my forehead to have dark points where there is hyperpigmentation. I also suffer from fine lines, they aren’t wrinkles because I’m still relatively young in age. These probably come from raising eyebrows, smiling and other facial expressions. Sometimes I do get breakouts, although the breakouts I do get are not that huge or anything. Breakouts are moderate/minor.
Why do I have these impurities?
Melanin biology tells us that brown skin darkens after irritation due to a process called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This is where the skin produces extra melanin after acne. Melanin is a pigment that is produced by melanocytes which gives colour to your skin, hair and eyes and has more crucial biological functions, such as protecting cells from UV radiation damage. There are two types: eumelanin which is the most common type, which results in brown and black colours, and pheomelanin which produces reddish brown hues. Inflammation triggers melanocytes which are the cells that produce melanin, and makes them hyperactive. This then leads to an overproduction of melanin, and there is an irregular distribution of pigment in the affected area. This causes the skin to appear darker, forming tan, brown, dark brown and even darker coloured patches where the acne used to be. It’s more common in brown skin because brown skin has a higher amount of melanin due to melanocytes being more active, and they produce larger, more effective melanosomes, making post inflammatory hyperpigmentation much more severe than someone with lighter skin tones.
The reason why someone might have fine lines is this. With age, the skin naturally becomes less elastic and drier, which means there is a decrease in collagen and elastin production. Another reason is because also with age, the skin cells start to divide slower, which causes the outer layer of skin to thin.
The age factors do not apply to me however, since I’m still very young, and these are the reasons why a young person like me could have fine lines. One reason is sun exposure. This is one of the more significant causes of premature aging, and this is where the UV rays break down collagen and elastin, which leads to wrinkles and losing firmness in the face. One which I 100% think is a factor as well is facial expressions. Smiling, squinting, frowning and other facial expressions can cause the muscles to retract and form grooves beneath the surface of the skin. Dehydration is also a factor. When dehydrated, your skin can look less plump and makes existing lines more prominent.
My Current Skincare Routine
Currently, my skincare routine is not good at all and will not fit my goals. I use turmeric soap as a cleanser at the moment. Turmeric soap does have its positives. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This is because turmeric contains curcumin, which has strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. However, there is little research on whether turmeric lightens the skin and heals dark spots, effectively meaning it does not. This makes the cleanser not really align with my goals.
I also use SPF 50 moisturiser and sunscreen from CeraVe. This is the only good part of my routine. Melanated skin is not enough to block out the sun, and so it still needs help from SPF 50.
Research
Niacinamide
Niacinamide supposedly inhibits melanin transfers, which prevents the transfer of melanin to the epidermis and this helps to support skin cell renewal, and this leads to better looking skin overall. Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier and minimizes water loss, and minimizes contrast too. Niacinamide also helps with wrinkles too, stimulating collagen and elastin production, which makes the skin more youthful. Heavy research has been done on Niacinamide, and so it seems like a great product to use.
Use 2-5% ideally, and only 10% concentration if tolerated. Using 10% or a higher % can cause irritation and even dermatitis if you have sensitive skin, so it is important to not use such high concentration. For me however, I am lucky to not have that high risk too much, as my skin is normal. Results usually kick in from 8-12 weeks.
SPF 50
Melanin blocks a lot of UV from the sun (Melanin has an equivalent of SPF 13.4), it does not fully protect your skin from the sun. The minimum is SPF 30, which my skin just does not have. Which is why using SPF 50 sunscreens is important to me. SPF 50 helps with dark spots and impurities by protecting the skin from the sun, preventing dark spots from darkening further. The sun can further darken dark spots, and so it’s important to use SPF 50 all the time.
It’s best to look for broad spectrum, PA+++++ and water resistant sunscreens for the best results. Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB rays, which prevents things such as sun burn and skin aging. PA+++++ is important because it is a Japanese rating system which indicates if a sunscreen has extremely high protection from UV rays. Water resistance is important because if you’re active in the gym (I am), sweat can remove the sunscreen protection from your face. Also, it is important to look for chemical sunscreens, so there’s no white cast when applying it to the skin.
Copper GHK-Cu (Peptide)
Copper GHK-Cu is a peptide that has become more popular over the last few years. It works by acting as a signaling molecule, which delivers copper to cells to repair and regenerate tissue. Science says that it has benefits for skin collagen, elastin production, healing wounds and antioxidant properties. The most effective serums use very low concentrations (below 0.5%). Copper GHK-Cu is not the best however for active acne, and using it alongside strong acids weaken the peptide itself. This is best to use after microneedling, since peptides signal repair (although this is still debated, some dermatologists strongly advise NOT to use any active immediately after microneedling. Still use retinoids/vitamin c alongside this peptide.
Vitamin C Serums
Vitamin C benefits the skin by boosting collagen production, which increases firmness and acts as an antioxidant to protect against damage and brightening complexion to target dark spots. It hydrates the skin too. There are two types of Vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid, which is the strongest and has the most evidence, but it can also be the most irritating, and Derivatives, such as SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate), MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), THD (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate), 3-0 Ethyl which are gentler, stable and they also brighten skin. It is said L-ascorbic acid is best for brown skin, but it needs to be at a low pH formula. 2.5-3.5 is the best. L-ascorbic acid also oxidises fast, and if it turns a dark orange colour, it is useless. Derivatives should be used if skin is sensitive and easily irritated, and the derivatives that are best for brown skin are SAP or THD.
Retinols
Retinols are said to help with skin cell turnover and collagen production, which fades dark spots over time. It also helps with regulating pigment production, and speed up the removal of melanin-containing cells. The options for retinols are:
Retinols (On The Counter)
Retinaldehyde (On the Counter, but stronger)
Adapalene (Differin - OTC, good for acne and PIN)
Tretinoin (Prescription)
Brown skin has been shown to benefit more from Adapalene, because it treats the root cause and helps to reduce post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and prevents future dark spots and scarring. Retinoids can worsen hyperpigmentation if they are not paired with SPF 50, and so it is important to use SPF 50 when using Retinoids. Start 2x a week, then 3x a week, then every other day then every day for the best results. Buffer with moisturiser to prevent any irritation.
Derma Roller/Stamp
These are microneedling tools that use fine needles to create tiny channels in the skin. They stimulate a response to the natural healing process to repair skin by boosting collagen and elastin production. This helps with uneven skin tone, acne scarring and wrinkles/fine lines. At home derma rollers don’t boost collagen and elastin production however, only professional ones. At home derma rollers should be 0.25mm-0.3mm in length and they improve product absorption, and temporarily give plump skin. 1.0-2.5mm are for professional clinics and these are the only things that can remove and remodel acne-scar collagen.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid which is found in grains such as barley, wheat and rye. It is very effective in treating dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid blocks the enzyme called tyrosinase, which is essential for melanin production. When reducing melanin synthesis, it helps to lighten dark spots that are caused by conditions such as PIH and melasma. Azelaic acid also has mild exfoliating properties that help to remove dead skin cells which promotes cell turnover. This reveals brighter skin and helps fade dark spots over time. Azelaic acid is helpful for all skin types including sensitive skin, and is beneficial for darker skin tones because it targets hyperpigmentation without major irritation.
Moisturiser Technology
Hydration is important for your skin because it improves complexion, elasticity, and overall skin appearance while preventing dryness and premature aging. Staying hydrated flushes out toxins and impurities from the skin, which results in a clearer and more radiant complexion. When dehydrated, it leads to dull and dry skin. Proper hydration supports collagen and elastin production. Well hydrated skin reduces the risk of fine lines because it’s more flexible and supple. Hydration prevents dryness by maintaining the moisture balance of the skin. When properly hydrated, the skin’s outer layer acts as a barrier, preventing excessive moisture loss and keeping the skin soft and smooth. Hydrated skin is also better equipped at repairing damage from the environment, such as UV radiation. This leads to a faster recovery and a healthier skin barrier.
There are different categories of moisturising ingredients with different benefits. Humectants, which are basically substances that draw water from the environment or deeper layers of the skin to the outermost layer, and this enhances hydration. By attracting water, these humectants help maintain skin hydration, improve texture and support the skin’s natural barrier function. Examples of humectants are hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea, aloe vera and sodium PCA. The best humectant from my research is hyaluronic acid. It is a powerful humectant that can hold up to 1000x its weight in water. It’s extremely good for dry and dehydrated skin especially because of this reason. Next is Emollients. These form a protective barrier around the skin, and they work by filling in the gaps between skin cells, which helps to smoothen and soften the surface of the skin. This is beneficial for individuals with dry, flaky or irritated skin. Examples include squalane, fatty acids, ceramides and triglycerides. Next, is occlusives. Occlusives form a seal to prevent water loss. Some occlusives include petrolatum, dimethicone and shea butter. It’s important to note that some examples of either humectants, emollients and occlusives can exist in more than one category.
